When choosing needlepoint thread, it is easy to look at the label and focus on one thing: what is it made from?
Wool, silk, cotton, metallic—or perhaps a blend.
But fiber content is only part of the story. How a thread is constructed can make just as much difference as what it is made from.
Two threads can have the same fiber content and still differ in thickness, softness, sheen, coverage and even how easily they pass through the canvas.
It Begins With the Fiber
Every thread begins with fibers. These may be natural fibers such as:
- Wool
- Silk
- Cotton
- Linen
Or they may be manufactured fibers such as rayon, nylon and polyester.
Each fiber brings its own characteristics. Wool is resilient and provides excellent coverage. Silk adds smoothness and beautiful light reflection. Cotton produces crisp stitches with a more matte appearance.
Blending fibers allows manufacturers to combine some of these qualities in a single thread.
But then comes the interesting part: construction.
From Fiber to Yarn
Individual fibers are gathered together and spun to form yarn.
How tightly they are spun affects the finished thread.
A tightly spun thread generally feels firmer and produces very defined stitches. A more loosely spun thread can feel softer and fuller.
This is one reason two wool threads—or even two identical wool-and-silk blends—may look completely different once stitched.
What Does “Ply” Mean?
You will often hear needlepoint stitchers talk about plies.
A ply is essentially one strand of spun fiber. Manufacturers can twist two or more of these strands together to create the finished thread.
A thread might be:
Single-ply: one continuous strand.
Two-ply: two strands twisted together.
Multi-ply: several strands combined.
Some threads are designed to be separated into individual strands before stitching. Others are intended to be used exactly as they come from the card or skein.
That distinction is important. Separating a thread that isn’t designed to be separated can change its appearance and performance.
Twist Makes a Difference
Look closely at different needlepoint threads and you may notice that some have a very visible twist while others look almost smooth.
More twist generally creates a firmer thread with strong stitch definition.
Less twist often creates a softer, loftier thread that spreads slightly as you stitch.
Neither is better. They simply create different effects.
A highly twisted thread can be wonderful when you want decorative stitches to stand out clearly. A softer thread can be particularly useful when you want plush, even coverage.
Thickness and Coverage
Thread thickness plays an enormous role in needlepoint.
The holes and spaces on a 13- or 14-mesh canvas are larger than those on an 18-mesh canvas, so a thread that beautifully covers 18 mesh may look thin on 14 mesh.
Conversely, a thick thread that gives wonderful coverage on 13 mesh may feel crowded when pulled through 18 mesh.
This is why I don’t recommend choosing thread based solely on fiber content.
Always consider:
Fiber + construction + thickness + canvas mesh.
Together, those four things determine how the thread will actually behave.
A Perfect Example: Silk and Wool Blends
A silk-and-wool blend is a wonderful example.
Imagine two threads that are both labeled 50% silk and 50% merino wool.
You might expect them to stitch exactly the same.
They don’t necessarily.
One may be spun and twisted into a relatively fine, smooth thread with crisp definition. Another may be constructed to be fuller and loftier, providing more coverage.
The ingredients are the same.
The construction is different.
It is a little like using the same ingredients to make two different kinds of bread—the recipe and technique change the finished result.
Why Some Threads Look Fuzzier
Construction also affects how much fuzz or “halo” you see around a thread.
Loosely spun fibers have more opportunity to move away from the central strand. Repeatedly pulling that thread through canvas can increase the fuzzy appearance.
A smoother, more tightly constructed thread generally maintains a cleaner surface.
If fuzz bothers you, use shorter stitching lengths and avoid repeatedly pulling the same section of thread through the canvas.
Don’t Forget the Needle
Your needle affects thread performance too.
The needle should open the canvas hole sufficiently so that the thread can pass through without excessive abrasion.
If you hear or feel the thread scraping aggressively against the canvas, don’t automatically blame the thread. The needle may be too small.
Constant abrasion can damage even a beautiful thread.
The Best Test Is Still a Few Stitches
Labels provide useful information, but they cannot tell you exactly how a thread will look on your canvas.
Before committing to a large area, stitch a small section.
Look at it in good light.
Can you see canvas between the stitches? Is the thread becoming fuzzy? Do the stitches lie smoothly? Is the thread too heavy for the canvas? Does the sheen complement the design?
Those few test stitches can save a lot of unstitching later.
The BeeBee Tip
When comparing threads, don’t just ask:
“What is this thread made from?”
Also ask:
“How is this thread co
Happy Stitching
BeeBee Designs
Needlepoint is as much about the beautiful threads in your hand as it is about the stitches on your canvas.
